Jo Lives To Eat

My life is mostly about food!

10:56

Tradicional After Supper Club

Posted by thefoodsnob |

Tequila killed me at University.  It was one fateful night on St Patrick's Day where my friends and I spent the night alternating our usual tipples with tequila shots.  As far as I know that evening went like so: downing tequila shots to violently throwing up.  I don't remember any enjoyment in between.

Since that day I can't bring myself to down any shots never mind just tequila so heaven knows why I was so adamant about going to a supper club put on by Jose Cuervo; the oldest producers of tequila in the world.  Oh yes, thats right, my love of Mexican food - that would cancel out any potential tequila-inducing gagging.

The idea behind Jose Cuervo's brand Tradicional putting on this supper club is actually to teach those of us who once were dirty, cheap students but now are dignified with sophisticated palettes, that tequila should be drunk straight, slowly and ice-cold.  And more importantly with friends.

Collaborating with food pop-up du jour, The Art of Dining, the supper club was held at my favourite venue in London; MC Motors.  Its an incredible warehouse space in the heart of Dalston that even empty has the most incredible charisma.  Exposed brickwork, crumbling paintwork, a mix of contemporary interiors and artwork with vintage furniture - the epitome of shabby chic.  Together with the venue's moody lighting, fairground feature pieces and mish-mash furniture, The Art of Dining had created a convival Mexican dining room complete with brightly coloured artwork, cactai, coriander plants and refriend bean tins for cutlery holders.




Before moving into the dining room, everybody was offered tequila cocktails in the lounge and then
everyone chose their spots and sat down at the communal tables made out of brightly coloured reclaimed doors, where we were treated to a 5-course Mexican feast.

First up was the avocado soup, complete with tequila slammer drinker's favourites, lime and salt, as well as a message telling us that would be the last we'd see of any traditional tequila accoutrements.  The soup was excellent.  It was perfectly zingy, rich and delicious.


Fish tacos followed that were wonderful.  The fish tasted like it had just come from the sea and had been made with a spicy marinade and tomato salsa.  Combined with a sprinkling of coriander that I helped myself to and in warm, soft tortillas, these were frustratingly moreish for the portion sizes.  Nevertheless we had another 3 courses to come.

Next up were the chili rellenos.  Large chili peppers stuffed with spiced rice, pine nuts and currants.  I must confess to thinking this didn't sound particularly special but they really were stunning. Sweet and sour, rich and flavoursome, again, we just wanted more.


Up next was a plate of pibil pork belly with black beans and cactus.  I had the vegetarian version which was the same but with portobello mushrooms.  The pork looked very crispy with not even a hint of oil or fat.  Each dish also came with a good dollop of avocado and tomato salsa.


My only criticism of my dish, is that it was barely lukewarm.  But, to be honest I didn't really care as it was still so tasty.  The combination of the earthy mushrooms and beans with the fresh and sharpness of the salsas and herbs was mouth-wateringly good.

The final course was an agave crème brûlée with spiced peaches and pomegranates.  I couldn't really fault this dish (other than, of course being too small!).  The crust on the crème brûlée was perfectly crunchy with the custard underneath tasting gorgeously smooth, rich and vanillery.  The combination of the peaches and pomegranates had a delicious crunch to them - almost like apples.


Suitably replete from beautiful food and plenty of wine and beer, the waiters then brought round the centre piece of the evening, a deconstructed sangrita.  This was a rather interesting way of enjoying the tequila.  We were invited to dip sweet cherry tomatoes into a mixture of either pepper, celery salt or sugar and then wash each mouthful down, slowly sipping some cold Tradicional tequila.  I have to say that even though I hate tequila and can barely deal with it touching my lips, this wasn't a totally unpleasant experience. 


I was really impressed.  With the mad pop-up bandwagon crashing through London right now, you can expect to pay around £35-50 for a ticket to a pop-up supper club where you might be lucky enough to get 4 or 5 courses along with a cocktail and then you bring your own booze.  The After Supper Club costs £45 a ticket and you get a bucket load of booze included with the 5 course gastronomy.  Somehow I think that has something to do with this event being put on by a brand as supposed to a group of individuals, but too right - the brand has money and inevitably their desired outcome is for customers to try, enjoy and then buy their product.  Since the brand is an alcohol - the clever thing to do is to get people pissed and then they'll drink more.  Genius. Tradicional's After Supper Club: the ultimate experiential campaign.

There might be a few tickets still available - its on from Wednesday until Saturday this week.  If you can - andale andale arriba arriba!





08:23

Mi obsesión por el Mexicano

Posted by thefoodsnob |

So my real obsession with Mexican food started at a memorable Bestival a few years ago.  My friend Nicole and I had a strange moment when we both decided it would be a great idea, in our festival haze to eat chilli con carne.  Of course, it wasn't such a good idea and all but a spoonful passed our mouths but as soon as we were sober and back on big city soil our infatuation started and it still continues to this day.

The tequila brand; Tradicional have collaborated with The Art of Dining this week for "an underground social and dining experience for gourmet adventurers and lovers of all things Mexican" - wowsers: what a bold statement, and one that pulls at every desire.

I was lucky enough to go to a little press preview last week and sample a few choice morsels and tonight I'm going to the full shebang.  I can't wait.  Tickets are still available for the rest of the weekend.  Check out all the details here.  My full review will be online next week.


09:00

A random meeting

Posted by thefoodsnob |

So I totally forgot to mention that I met Rick Stein a few weeks ago.  I've still never been to his restaurant and actually I've never even been to Cornwall, which is just despicable.  I really must go one of these days.



10:03

Dach and Sons

Posted by thefoodsnob |

I don't often frequent the luscious, hilly streets of Hampstead on an evening out, as there isn't really much in the way of decent restaurants and even less in the way of nice bars.  A Sunday lunch is just about all I'll manage and that, Hampstead does well.

So when I heard there was a trendy new bar and restaurant on Heath Street from the owners of Purl and The Worship Street Whistling Shop; both exemplary bars, I was itching to find out if it would be become a destination for me and my North London chums.

Dach and Sons takes over 3 floors and combines a restaurant, bar and roof terrace with stunning views over Hampstead. The name, a hommage to the humble hot dog is another kitsch and trendy American diner-style restaurant hot on the heels of the likes of Spuntino and Meat Liquor. 

The interior is actually quite like Spuntino; a mixture of white tiles, slate and wood furnishings and the usual industrial lighting.   Its a clean, stripped back and airy space with a few nice touches like giant Maris Piper potato tins for sitting on, wooden sharing tables and bright yellow high stools.

The menu is a cute selection of hotdogs and sliders along with some wacky sounding sides such as frickles, devils on horseback and bone marrow popcorn.

We started off with some beers.  The drafts are sold by the 2/3 pint and they have an impressive selection of whiskeys that they like to pair with the beer.  We then ordered an array of things to try and I was particularly looking forward to the "dachsund", an all beef frankfurter that comes with 10 day sauerkraut and ketchup (affectionately called "tommy-k" here).  Everything came looking utterly fabulous - all presented immaculately in little jars, cages and on trays.  The hotdog came, strangely, served on a white surgical glove, which one of the owners told me is a tribute to one of the supposed inventors of the hotdog in Louisiana who used to loan people white gloves to protect their hands from the hot sausage - thus the bun was then added.



But for all the visual delight, the tastes for me, unfortunatley didn't quite measure up.   The sliders, a selection of salt beef, chilli and cheese burger all tasted juicy and were well cooked but they were all a bit tasteless.  They all just tasted a bit samey and needed a good deal more seasoning.  The hotdog, however was excellent and really really tasty but it was a bit small for £8 and I just wanted more.  The chips that came vaccum dried with beef dripping were stunning.  First class fries.  But my biggest disappointment was with the frickles.  An awesome sounding name for a side dish - pressure pickled cucumber with dill and beer batter.  But, oh dear.  Gherkins in batter - it was just sacrilige and not pleasant.  






Saying that though, I kind of feel like the issues with the food are just teething problems and as the restaurant gains popularity, the food will develop to a much better standard.

We then moved upstairs to "Flat P", their Hampstead version of "Purl", a speakeasy bar.  When you walk in you feel like you've entered another world.  You're immediately hit with an elusive, almost forbidden feeling and there is scratchy 40's-style jazz music playing in the background.  Its just cool.  The furniture is all plush, royal blue velvet and there are lots of statement pieces like this globe bar sitting in pride of place.


The bar really is beautiful and what these guys clearly do best.  The cocktail selection is short but unusual, highly conceptual and each drink comes as an entire experience, as supposed to just a thirst quencher.

Unfortunately, the night I was there, the weather was standard British so there was to be no schmoozing on the roof terrace but I had a cheeky look round and it is a great space, so will no doubt provide an area of secluded luxury and good times in the weeks to come.  Will Dach and Sons become a destination venue in Hampstead?  I think it might just be.

13:46

Taste of London

Posted by thefoodsnob |

Yes yes yes!  I get to write about my absolute favourite annual event in the capital for the first time, Taste of London.  It is an utter highlight of the summer for me, obviously - its a food festival, but it is the Grandaddy on high, of all food festivals, with some of London's best restaurants exhibiting, masterclasses with the top chefs, new brands, food trends and world cuisine to try.  One can only pray for sunshine and no rain.  Luckily for me the rain demons stayed away and my partner in crime, Nicole and I swooped in, ready to sample as much good food and alcohol as we could.

The great thing about Taste is that if you're a real foodie but don't have the opportunity to go to some of the best Michelin starred restaurants in the capital, you can visit a lot of them here and sample some of their signature dishes for a very reasonable price. There were at least 30 restaurants exhibiting this year including Pollen Street Social, Le Gavroche, Benares, Cinnamon Soho, The Savoy Grill and Asia de Cuba.

Funnily enough, the first person I saw as Nicole and I started navigating our way round was Jason Atherton from Pollen Street Social. As you may have read, I recently went to his excellent restaurant and so I had to go and tell him personally what I thought.  He was delightful and started off my afternoon of food joyousness, really rather well.

We decided to do a full circle before committing to any one restaurant and first passed through Theo Randall, where we were offered a taste of some fresh parmesan from this giant wheel that we were told costs just under a grand.   I wonder if the whole lot got eaten over the weekend?  It tasted scrumptious.


En route round the restaurant stands we got ambushed by a smiley girl working at the Belvedere Vodka stand, offering us some shots of 2 new flavours, pink grapefruit and Bloody Mary.  I have never been able to do shots of straight spirits, basically if I do, I throw up, but being close friends with a Russian seems to have changed all that.  These shots were actually quite nice and had a lot of flavour to them.  I was much more interested in drinking the vodka in some cocktails though, so asked for a Cucumber Fizz.  It sounded like it would be amazing - Belvedere Bloody Mary vodka, fresh lemon, elderflower and cucumber.  It was amazing, utterly drinkable and delicious.  I would definitely be going back for more.

We continued with the Bloody Mary theme when my eye caught a garish red and black stand called Little Devil offering a whole host of Bloody Mary products including a Bloody Mary spice pack to add to vodka and tomato juice, and also a Bloody Mary vodka called Blood Shot.  I thought the packaging looked great and the shot of the vodka that I tried was super super spicy, but how would a proper glass of Bloody Mary taste?  I had a Bloody Bull that mixed all the usual ingredients together with some beef consommé.  Well, it was definitely rich and thick, but I would have liked it a bit more spicy and sharp - you know when its almost black in colour?  But then again, its totally subjective.

It was definitely time for food and so our first stop was at Cotidie, a new restaurant in Marylebone that I've been reading some good reviews for.  Nicole and I were both intrigued by the tartare of beef cured in spices with a taleggio cheese fondue.  Unfortunately, our intrigue was not met with enamoured satisfaction.  In fact, quite the opposite, we were distinctly unsatisfied.  The dish, other than the rich, creamy cheese was quite tasteless.  I couldn't detect any spices at all.  Disappointing.


Never mind, our spirits and taste buds were soon to be lifted by South America. Ah yes, my old faithful, you never disappoint.  For starters, there was a big South American presence this year that I've never seen before.  Argentina and Peru both featured heavily and the rest of our day basically became a game of "who makes the best ceviche".  But first, that Argentine wonder that is steak.  Nicole and I spied an Argentine flag and swept over to see a company called Portena giving away bloody and juicy steak, straight from a traditional parrilla.  Along with a little bit of chimichurri it was heavenly.  Portena is actually a speciality empanada caterer and were also giving away plenty of the half moon pastry treats, which were delicious.  But I liked their cunning ploy of serving lots of steak to bring in the crowds.



 Peruvian food is without doubt the fodder du jour and the restaurant, Ceviche is definitely the place that has put it firmly on the food cognoscenti's map.  Ceviche had a small stall in the Tastes of the World "Peru" section with some yummy pisco sours and pots of totally exquisite sea bass ceviche.  It was served the true ceviche way here: fresh, zingy and simple with nothing more than onion, coriander, chilli and lime.  I could have eaten a tonne of it.




Next up we moved over to Alan Yau's Japanese restaurant, Sake No Hana.  Both Nicole and I were really keen to sample the dishes as both of us have wanted to go, but have never made it.  The delightful Maitre D, Pierre told us very eloquently, everything we needed to know about the food and the restaurant.  We tried 2 dishes.  Firstly, a seven spice ribeye beef tereyaki with lotus root chips and then, Tori karaage hacca fried chicken with haccho miso.  I did like both dishes but I felt a little like they were from a Chinese restaurant, not Japanese.  The beef had a slight sweetness to it, yet also a touch of sour that I am more familiar with in a Chinese environment.  I loved the chicken because it was different and unexpected.

We then tried our second ceviche of the day, courtesy of Asia de Cuba, another restaurant I would love to go to.  This one was a little more like what you might get in Colombia, on the Caribbean coast of South America.  They tend to come with a bit more sauce and are often creamier than traditional ceviche.  This was Scottish salmon ceviche with salted avocado helado, spicy coconut milk and bird eye peppers.  I thought it tasted stunning, especially with the avocado ice-cream and coconut.

Then, as another little treat, we had one more celebrity sighting in the form of Michel Roux Jr standing outside Le Gavroche.  He really is a very good looking older man, perhaps the George Clooney of gastronomy.


We were starting to reach our limit but we had to complete our trio of ceviche tasting.  Since Argentina has such a place in my heart, where better to finish than Argentine powerhouse Gaucho for their starter of sea bass ceviche with mango and passion fruit sauce?  It was another fine dish and presented beautifully, although I would have liked there to have been more fish and less dress. However, we then had one of Gaucho's fine meat dishes, a grilled steak with a humita cake and smoked garlic hollandaise which was just gorgeous and totally mouth-watering.


Along with a couple more cocktails, wine samples and a cheeky glass of champagne, I was almost ready to roll home, but there was no way I was leaving without dessert and there was only one dish that really and truly grabbed me as soon as I saw it.  A chocolate sphere with milk ice-cream and honeycomb from Gordon Ramsay's Petrus.  Eye-catchingly beautiful, each dish came with a little jug of hot chocolate sauce that the server poured into the bowl, melting the chocolate sphere to reveal the honeycomb and warm gooeyness inside.  I have to say I often find Ramsay's cooking to be a little too rich but this chocolate was dreamy.  My only criticism is that there was nowhere near enough honeycomb inside.


Ok, that really is it now.  I didn't eat or drink anything else.  But let me say this: to any one of you that classes yourself remotely in the category of living to eat, go to Taste of London.  It is without the doubt the most brilliant food festival you could wish to go to.  Excellently organised, a plethora of great restaurants to try, wonderful independent food companies, drinks aplenty, oodles of freebies, masterclasses from some of the best chefs around and some generally awesome people to meet.  Can it be every day please?

08:50

Street Feast

Posted by thefoodsnob |


I missed out on the Long Table, the Dalston Friday night food market last year.  I did try and go one night but the queues were excessive.  Can a night food market really be that good?  Isn’t it just a regular old food market with a bunch of stalls but after the sun’s gone down? 

I heard about the latest Friday night food market in London; Street Feast a couple of weeks ago so made a beeline sharpish to see what all the fuss is about. Its in the Sclater Street carpark just in between Shoreditch High Street station and Brick Lane and what do you know, its awesome.  I loved it.

I went with my friend Debs and made a point of getting us there on time to avoid any silly hunger-fuelled or rampant queues.  Actually when we first arrived, I was a little disappointed.  There was hardly anyone there and on first glance there weren’t that many stalls.  I thought it looked a little sad.  But first appearances can be deceiving.

Towards the back of the market was a long bar with the new Camden brewery  providing the booze.  Debs and I grabbed ourselves a cold bottle of white and went and sat down in the makeshift tarpaulin dining room, assessing what foods to try.

The bright neon colours of Mexican tablecloths were instantly alluring and the site of some ceviche was screaming out to us.  We ordered one as well as a cheese and bean quesadilla.  The ceviche was limey, fresh and delicious.  The quesadilla was also good: cheesy, filling and well seasoned.



No sooner had we finished our first round of dishes the car park was awash with eager punters and the tressle tables were filling up.

Next up we tried a large slice of pizza from Homeslice.  There was a traditional wood burning fire and also some delicious sounding pizza.  We tried the spinach, mushroom and ricotta that was truly excellent.  There seems to be a real wave of gourmet pizza places popping up at the moment and these guys really seem to be on top.



Still keen for more we decided to try a little bit of Asian fusion from Hardcore Prawn.  We opted for a tum yum soup, a clear broth with lots of noodles, lots of coriander and lots of chilli.  Soups like this often taste of nothing but this was quite flavoursome and had a real kick to it.



By now the place was totally buzzing – queues everywhere, people cramming onto the tables or just sitting on the ground and talking delightedly about food.



Although by now, Debs and I had had our fill of the main foods, we had to try something sweet to finish it all off.  Beas of Bloomsbury provided a welcome vista of colourful cupcakes but with a difference.  Since this was a night market, on offer were alcohol infused “cuptails” – cocktails in a cupcake.  Probably a little more tastefully named than the more obvious word mix.  There were tequila ones, rum ones, baileys and cherry liquer.  Now my faithful readers will know from my cucpcake gripes in the past that I am a bit of a cupcake snob, but I do have to give Bea some props.  These cakes were anything but dry and vanilla.  They were positively scrumptious with just a hint of naughtiness.



Other than the wine, Debs and I barely spent more than a tenner each and we got to sample at least 4 different dishes and dessert.   The place was rammed, buzzing and really cool.  I was very happy spending my Friday night here.  Good food, good booze, good chat, good times.

Street Feast is on every Friday night until July 20th. 



11:09

Pollen Street Social

Posted by thefoodsnob |


Sod’s law is a bitch.  Isn’t it?  Weeks and weeks I’ve been waiting to go to Pollen Street Social and the day before I get ill with the most horrid cold I’ve had in ages.  Bugger.  I wasn’t about to cancel it as I was going with my dear Mum who was visiting me from Newcastle…..and paying (obviously).  So, I had to buck up, dowse up and sniff up a load of drugs to try and enjoy myself.

The social is aptly named as the main room of the restaurant is a bit like a canteen.  The tables are very close together and while my Mother didn’t like it for being too loud, I actually like being near to other customers and hearing their conversations.  The restaurant is very simple, modern and clean with a few nice touches of interior lighting and random art.  However, with the prep bar being at one end of the room, it would kind of look like a furniture showroom if you removed the dining tables. 


Comfortable and 10% snot-free we had a look at the menus.  There is a very reasonable set lunch for £25.50 for 3 courses that my Mum and I both indulged in.  Mum started with an asparagus salad that came with Colchester brown crab, pomelo and coriander. I’m not a fan of crab but Mum said it was fresh out the sea and very tasty.  The pomelo had been freeze dried and was deliciously crunchy.


 I decided to start with something a little more adventurous, a scallop ceviche that came with cucumber, radish, apple and a soy dressing.  It looked like a sculpted piece of art that I almost hesitated in digging in to.  Initially I thought that the tastes might be a little too weak for my deterred cold-ridden taste buds to detect but in fact, all the subtle flavours came through really well.  The sharpness of the soy dressing and radish, mixed with the coldness of the scallops and apples made something that was a lovely piquant sweetness.


We both had the same main course – rack of salt marsh lamb, crispy lamb belly on seaweed, pea puree and asparagus.  It was divine in every way.  Although, I’m not sure the crispy lamb belly needed a whole bowl to itself, on a bed of inedible seaweed.  I thought that was a little pretentious and pointless.  Nevertheless, the rest was stunning.  The lamb was beautifully pink and soft with some crispy edges I enjoyed nibbling.  A truly British dish with seasonal colours and flavours.


 The pre-dessert palette cleaner was a pineapple and lime granite with a lychee foam.  I would have been quite happy to have that as a light dessert.  It was as it should be – fruity, fresh, cold and clean.

It clearly would have been far too refined of us not to have desserts, so we indulged gluttonously on a cheese plate and a calorie disaster of chocolate.  This was a pave that came with almond ice-cream and pink praline.  It looked supremely rich but in reality it was very edible, especially with the subtle ice-cream flavour.


All in all a superb lunch and as I had hoped, Jaston Atherton’s cooking is similar to that of Marcus Waerings’ – clean, elegant and fuss-free, rather unlike the overly rich food of their mentor Gordon Ramsay.   I will most definitely go to the Social again.