I got offered a new job a couple of weeks ago (yipppeeeee) and so decided to treat myself to a little last minute trip away and settled on Lisbon. I went by myself for 3 nights and did nothing but stroll, read and eat. It was heaven. I also did something I almost never do....order lots of fish. Now I have mentioned in my blog before that I'm very aware that its quite weird to be such a foodie and be very fussy about fish, but my palate has been ever expanding over the years and I'm pretty much ok to eat most types. I'll say it again for those who care but cooked salmon, trout and little oily fish are the big no-no's.
On the first night I went to a lovely restaurant called Sacramento in Bairro Alto and this is where I was most out of character, eating fish for both courses. I'm proud of myself.....and yet such a loser. But, I loved all of it. I started with a smoked salmon ceviche served with lime and coconut and for the main I ate the local speciality in Lisbon; salted cod. This came roasted on a bed of spinach and potatoes served with fried onions. The freshness tasting of the cod out there is just on another level - there is such a subtle flavour of the sea with every rich bite.
This wasn't the only night I ate fish. I also went to a very cute, quaint family run restaurant called La Primavera and I ate sizzling prawns with roasted garlic. I enjoyed so much just eating very slowly and mopping up the garlic juice with some soft and crusty bread.
So of course, fish is quintessentially Lisbon. As well as cobbled streets, narrow pavements, steep hills and stunning views - which all go annoyingly hand in hand, so I spent a large portion of my time huffing, puffing and trying to steer clear of getting run over. However, while doing all of this I discovered something else that is classic Lisbon; carpaccio. The locals love it. But, not just beef carpaccio - I saw tuna, octopus, salmon and veal - it was on every menu I saw. It was also all rather delicious, especially the veal carpaccio I had for lunch in the delightful backyard in Cafe Royale. It came with coriander and artichoke hearts, literally two of my favourite things and was such a rich, yet fresh but filling lunch - yum.
I also went to some great bars while I was there. A couple of notables were Pavilhão Chinês and Cinco. "Pav" as it is known is this completely mental but incredible bar that used to be some sort of museum and is just wall to wall of glass cabinets filled with endless plastic toys, models, ornaments, nick-nacks and other crazy things that just make you stare rudely over people's heads while enjoying your drink made by an old grey-haired man in a blue suit and bow tie.
Cinco is a trendy but cosey bar that is owned by an English guy called Dave (obviously)...who knows his shit and has an rather extensive and excellent cocktail menu that has been honed over the last 20 years. He was there when I was sipping my kiwi and cucumber vodka martini so got chatting to him and he told me about his other business in Lisbon, a cupcake cafe. Cue sighs and bores from me (see previous cucpcake post) however, he did make it out to sound pretty cool - a bit dark and disco and with tasty sounding cupcakes. So, I had to go. The next day I found myself at Tease, the self-confessed "rock 'n' roll bakery" and I was instantly taken. Firstly the decor is very chic and fitting; black skull wallpaper that I've seen before in Liberty's and just love, sitting behind a fuchsia couch, lots of antique style arm chairs, a golden disco ball and sleek black bar that houses an array of muti-coloured cupcakes. The verdict? Well, from the raspberry one I tasted I'd say pretty good. Very moist, raspberry jam inside (quite old school but I liked that) and looked great. Genuinely chilled and lovely place to hang out for some sweet treats. Plus, how cool are the ice-cubes?!!
This wasn't the only night I ate fish. I also went to a very cute, quaint family run restaurant called La Primavera and I ate sizzling prawns with roasted garlic. I enjoyed so much just eating very slowly and mopping up the garlic juice with some soft and crusty bread.
So of course, fish is quintessentially Lisbon. As well as cobbled streets, narrow pavements, steep hills and stunning views - which all go annoyingly hand in hand, so I spent a large portion of my time huffing, puffing and trying to steer clear of getting run over. However, while doing all of this I discovered something else that is classic Lisbon; carpaccio. The locals love it. But, not just beef carpaccio - I saw tuna, octopus, salmon and veal - it was on every menu I saw. It was also all rather delicious, especially the veal carpaccio I had for lunch in the delightful backyard in Cafe Royale. It came with coriander and artichoke hearts, literally two of my favourite things and was such a rich, yet fresh but filling lunch - yum.
I also went to some great bars while I was there. A couple of notables were Pavilhão Chinês and Cinco. "Pav" as it is known is this completely mental but incredible bar that used to be some sort of museum and is just wall to wall of glass cabinets filled with endless plastic toys, models, ornaments, nick-nacks and other crazy things that just make you stare rudely over people's heads while enjoying your drink made by an old grey-haired man in a blue suit and bow tie.
Cinco is a trendy but cosey bar that is owned by an English guy called Dave (obviously)...who knows his shit and has an rather extensive and excellent cocktail menu that has been honed over the last 20 years. He was there when I was sipping my kiwi and cucumber vodka martini so got chatting to him and he told me about his other business in Lisbon, a cupcake cafe. Cue sighs and bores from me (see previous cucpcake post) however, he did make it out to sound pretty cool - a bit dark and disco and with tasty sounding cupcakes. So, I had to go. The next day I found myself at Tease, the self-confessed "rock 'n' roll bakery" and I was instantly taken. Firstly the decor is very chic and fitting; black skull wallpaper that I've seen before in Liberty's and just love, sitting behind a fuchsia couch, lots of antique style arm chairs, a golden disco ball and sleek black bar that houses an array of muti-coloured cupcakes. The verdict? Well, from the raspberry one I tasted I'd say pretty good. Very moist, raspberry jam inside (quite old school but I liked that) and looked great. Genuinely chilled and lovely place to hang out for some sweet treats. Plus, how cool are the ice-cubes?!!
